Lands of Arran – Jih-Biin painting tutorial

By Little Demon


Hello everyone,

So we are going to paint Jih-Biin, a superb piece, rich in details!

The sculpture being very close to the original illustration, we will take the latter as a reference.

Paint list


  • Doombull brown (Games Workshop)
  • 2nd base flesh paint set (Andrea)
  • 1st base flesh paint set (Andrea)
  • Caliban green (Games Workshop)
  • Emperor’s children (Games Workshop)
  • Chair claire (Prince Auguste)


  • Caliban green (Games Workshop)
  • Moot green (Games Workshop)
  • Chair jaune (Andrea) ≈ Elf flesh (Games Workshop)
  • Vert bleu pâle (Prince Auguste)


  • Doombull brown (Games Workshop)
  • Sotek green (Games Workshop)
  • Black
  • Ivory (Andrea)

White areas:

  • Rackart flesh (Games Workshop)
  • Black
  • Ivory (Andrea)


  • Skrag brown (Games Workshop)
  • Blazing orange (Games Workshop)
  • Black
  • Aurore (Prince Auguste)

Non Metallic Metal:

  • Black
  • Vert bleu pâle (Prince Auguste)
  • Chair jaune (Andrea)
  • Chair pâle (Prince Auguste)


  • Ivory (Andrea), Black, White for the eyes
  • Red ink, Black for blood spots

   Click on any picture below to enlarge it in a new tab!   

Miniature preparation

After washing the parts with soapy water, the first step is to apply the primer with black spray paint.


I start applying a very uniform and opaque Doombull brown base coat.

Then, with a 50/50 mixture of Doombull Brown & 2d base of the Andrea flesh set, I start to place the volumes.

Then, I finish highlighting the volumes with pure 2nd base.

Be careful with the Andrea pots, they are very rich in pigments. It is necessary to homogenize them well and to thin them enough to avoid over-thicknesses.

I then lighten with 1st base of the same flesh set from Andrea’s.

The strong shadows are reworked with a 50/50 mixture of Caliban green and black.

A Caliban green glaze is used to bind the shadows and slightly tint the whole thing green. A glaze from Emperor’s Children then ties the lights together.

Finally, I apply Chair claire (PA) to place the strong lights, in several diluted layers.

The eyes

The work of the eyes is very simple:

– Base in Ivory (Andrea),
– then a black dot,
– and finally a (smaller) white dot!

Skin and face done!


Green fabric

We start with a wet blending (right on the miniature) of black, Caliban green and Moot green to directly place lights, shadows and medium shades.

The hollows are then reworked in Caliban green at the top and with Black at the bottom, in order to clearly define the volumes.

The light in the lower areas is set with Caliban green and at the top by returning to Moot green.

Adding Chair jaune (Andrea, equivalent to the GW elf flesh) to the Moot green for strong lights.

I highlight the textures in the lower areas with a mixture of Vert bleu pâle (PA) and a touch of Caliban Green.


For the leather parts, we start with a Doombull brown base.

Then Sotek green is added to the base color, which is applied everywhere as a wash to define the volumes.

Then, we apply a black glaze in the shadows.

Re-lightening with Doombull Brown and then highlighting are made by gradually adding Ivory.

White areas

Base coat with Rackart flesh wet blended with black.

Rework with pure Rackart flesh then place the highlights in Ivory.


Skrag brown (GW) base layer

Black wash.

Addition to the base color of Blazing Orange (GW).

Pure Blazing orange.

Shadow reworking to clearly distinguish the strands.

Strong lights in Aurore (PA).


We use the same technique here as for the green fabric.

Sword – Non Metallic Metal

Painting of the NMM:


The base is a 75/25 mixture of black and Vert bleu pâle (PA).

The reflections are then made of the same mixture in a 50/50 ratio. The most important thing here is to simulate a realistic material. The placement of reflections is therefore essential.

Lightening by adding Chair jaune (Andrea) and reworking the shadows with black.

Final touch of Chair pâle (PA)


It is basically a matter of adding texture here and there, blood spots (red ink + black)…

The end!

It is now time to take the last pictures!


Thank you for following this tutorial,

Nicolas DEZE

felis efficitur. Praesent venenatis at mi, elit. facilisis Donec

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